The Seasons they are a changin'

In my 22 years of existence on this planet, I had never thought about the weather. Sure, I knew what weather was. Before I came to Korea, I  had known what seasons were in in theory; Due to the Earth's rotation around the sun, the weather changes and thus creates different meteorological events during the year. Yet I had never witnessed this phenomenon in person, nor had I ever realized how much weather really does affect your daily life. Fellow Angeleno David Letterman summed up our peculiar relationship with the weather quite well:
"Fall is my favorite season in Los Angeles, watching the birds change color and fall from the trees."
Our deciduous trees don't really get the memo that their leaves are supposed to change in the fall, and instead start changing somewhere around Christmas time. We can't drive in the rain, and I honestly think my beloved city would implode if it ever snowed. There's a reason it's called Sunny Southern California, the land of endless summer.
Summer ended here in September. Mother Nature has been prodded along by Father Time, and we're almost in winter.
Other than the temperature dropping, the trees did this really strange thing. They started changing colors. Magnificent colors: shades of reds, oranges, and yellows, as rich and fiery as the sunset itself. It was really quite a site to see, and for this sun kissed SoCal kid, the spectacle was absolutely breathtaking:

Fall foliage on my walk to school

I didn't really understand the appeal of the Fall season before I came to South Korea.  I think I understand a bit better now. 

                                                          My buddy John Mark and I in Jeongup, a city known for it's fall foliage

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Every third thursday of November, Americans  celebrate  the tradition-laden Thanksgiving holiday. Crisp Fall air, football games in the leaves, and Norman Rockwell-esque gatherings are common imagery surrounding one of America's most gluttonous and delicious holidays. 

For me, Thanksgiving conjures up  one of those turkey day images.  While the holiday is characterized by great family time, the most enduring memory of the holiday is  our car ride to my aunt's house.  The car is full of savory aromas from my dad's smoked turkey and my mom's superb pumpkin muffins. Its usually 70 degrees out, a light breeze blows through the palm trees, and the closest thing to the brilliant oranges, reds and yellows of autumn is the smog filled sunset that pierces the rush hour traffic on the 101 that always plagues our turkey day transit. 

For the second time in my life, that tradition was broken. Yet this past weekend, I was fortunate enough to celebrate Thanksgiving in Seoul with my fellow ETAs. We were formally invited  to the  private residence of the Honorable Kathleen Stevens, US Ambassador to Korea. We would have the opportunity to spend the afternoon with herself and the rest of the US Embassy staff for a full Thanksgiving meal, courtesy of the US State Department. 

As a US Diplomat, part of the job is to host a variety of different groups at your home for public affairs events. Important leaders of Industry, Academics, Politicians and the like all visit the Ambassador's home for a number of different galas throughout the year. Luckily for us, Fulbrighters fall into this category: they pulled out all the stops and treated us to a fantastic afternoon of food and company. 

 

Part of the dining room

One of the many sitting rooms

One of the funniest parts of the afternoon happened when a few ETAs and I wandered to the back of the house, away from the designated hosting area. We stumbled upon the Ambassador's living room (opposed to the hosting area where we were) and noticed she had a wide array of DVD's next to her television. The usual suspects were there:  The Presidents, a documentary by PBS, The Korean Conflict, US Diplomacy Abroad, and a few other documentaries that would interest a US Ambassador. However, next to a series on traditional Korean dance was something out of the ordinary: 

Stacked neatly in a row was EVERY single of  season Chapelle's Show, the hit series that ran on Comedy Central a few years back.  Needless to say, it was a bit out of character for the dignified Ambassador, but I guess we're all human, right? 

After that, every time I was within earshot of the Ambassador, I wanted to yell "I"M RICK JAMES, BITCH!!" at the top of my lungs. Luckily, I didn't. But I really wanted to. 

I know you know what that means, Ambassador Stevens. 

All in all, the weekend was delicious and much needed. I had an unforgettable Thanksgiving courtesy of the State Department, I ate delicious food, and I learned that our very own Ambassador has a funny bone for slapstick vulgar humor. With North Korea straining diplomatic relations as of late, I completely understand why she might need to laugh away her stress with the Robot Dancing man, Tron Carter, and Tyrone Biggums.  SHAZAAM!!!

In other news, word has it that Mother Nature will do yet another shape shifting transformation in the upcoming weeks. Those gorgeous fall leaves have fallen off, and there's talk of this bizarre phenomenon that will sweep the country next month. Apparently, it will get so cold that the rain will turn into these white crystals. I don't quite understand what they mean, but they say I'll need a mittens and a scarf, because it will get a tad bit chilly.  I can't wait to learn more about this "weather" stuff. Bring it on!

Oh yeah. HAPPY TURKEY DAY! Hope you have a safe and relaxing holiday! 

Until next time...

Leaving "Pearadise" for Paradise

As per tradition, Guemseong High School takes an annual trip in November to Jeju Island.  Known as the "Hawaii of Korea," Jeju's unique geological history has made it a prime destination for tourists due to it's unrivaled physical beauty. It's convenient  position below the southern tip of  peninsula makes it accessible by both boat and plane as well. Since trip is all expense paid for teachers, I gladly accepted the offer to join in on the fun. Free food, hotel, admission, and transport on a vacation island? Awesome!

Jeju Island: only 9,604 kilometers from home!

So off we went- myself, 10 other teachers, and 300 high school boys for a week long tropical vacation.   I was expecting palm trees, exotic drinks, and relaxation....PSYCHE!! I did get two out of the three, however, but relaxation definitely was not one of them. Although Jeju was more reminiscent of Southern California than, say, Bali or Bora Bora, it did provide its fair share of exotic sites and experiences. 

The adventure began at 7am on Tuesday morning. After we arrived at the seaport town of Mokpo, we boarded a giant commercial car ferry headed to Jeju city. The boat ride was a grueling 4 hours long on choppy seas, yet this landlubber barely had a chance to develop his sea legs because, being the only foreigner on a boat filled with three all girls high schools, I barely had time to sit down. Between my own students horsing around and the adolescent girls slinging themselves at me for a photo opportunity, it was the closest I've come to celebrity status. The verdict is still out if I like it or not, but for now, I'm happy to keep my relative anonymity. 

Exhibit A: One of the 9,456,782 pictures taken of  me with various high school girls. They would continually compliment me on my "round face" and "handsome looks." At first, I was flattered. Then I realized that "handsome" is a standard adjective to describe the Western phenotype, and many Americans also receive similar compliments. But then I realized it might be better if I just accepted it on face value. ;)

Exhibit B: Guemseong's finest: My biggest kid sitting on my smallest kid. Soon after this picture was taken, they decided to try and make the little one swim with the fishes. One would think that releasing 300 high school boys and 300 high school girls on a boat together would equate to a primetime episode of the "Love Boat," but it was more like an awkward clip from "Freaks and Geeks." Since Korean high school students literally study all day, they do not have time to interact with, let alone flirt with the opposite sex. I'm not saying I was a ladies man when I was 15, but my students were acting more like prepubescent middle schoolers than testosterone driven teenagers.

Once we reached dry land, the whirlwind that would be the next three days began. Some highlights include a circus, a hedge maze, a miniature park, and mountains. Everyday, we would embark and disembark off of busses while our tour guide explained about each site. Since I didn't understand anything, I just smiled and listened. Luckily, my students were more than eager to show me around and make sure I got back on the bus at the right time. 

Halla Mountain

One of the highlights of the trip was a hike up to the peak of Halla mountain. Sitting at a soaring 6,398 feet (take that Mt. Whitney!), Halla took a full 8 hours roundtrip. Although it was the most grueling day of the trip, it was possibly the most fun. 

In South Korea, hiking is viewed strictly as a social activity that has some recreational (and even less physical) component to it.  In the US,  we value our wide open spaces. We love our Yosemite's and Yellowstones, our deserts and forests, our seas to shining seas. We love to pile in the van and go rough it for the weekend. Since 40 million people live in a country the size of Indiana, there are a few geographical constraints to "communing with nature" in South Korea. Instead, popular hiking spots are swarmed with people wearing the latest outdoor fashions.  Not only are the trails packed, but they are also equipped with rest stops, toilets, and sometimes, restaurants. 

About 7 kilometers into the trail, I was greeted with this: A fully fledged snack bar for the hungry intrepid hiker. Bathrooms, water, cameras and ramen awaited. Notice the swarms of people in front. 

 How else would the ramen reach the snack bar other than  a  miniature "ramen train?" This track ran parallel to the trail for 6 kilometers. 

When I wasn't looking at the ramen train, there was quite a bit of pretty scenery to look at as well!

One of the most fascinating things on the trail, wasn't the scenery, (although that was beautiful as well), but more the demographics of the hikers. Young and old alike were chugging up the side of Halla. Surprisingly, I went on a Wednesday. I can only imagine how jammed the trail must be on a weekend!  However, one thing united almost all of the hikers I saw that day. They were all decked out in the most expensive and latest outdoor fashion gear from the North Face. I didn't see any Patagonia or Colombia, only North Face. It really was "wilderness chic" taken to the extreme. At one point, I saw a woman brushing the dirt off of her hiking boots after she stepped in a puddle!

A typical Korean hiker in a color coordinated outfit that would make Ralph Lauren jealous. For the record, it was only 65 degrees outside. Not pictured: My super high quality "Red Face" jacket, complete with a logo that is very reminiscent of a popular outdoor clothing brand. And yes, I did buy it in Korea.

I've noticed that it's customary to bring your entire lunch to the top of the mountain, complete with alcoholic beverages. This is a pretty normal site on the hiking trail.

 Motorbikes, Mazes, and Miniatures

When we weren't scaling mountains, we were site-seeing around the island. One of the coolest things we did was go to  to the Jeju circus. Although the whole island only has a permanent population of 500,000, they have their own circus. Apparently the circus company is world-renouned in the circus community, and for good reason. Although photography wasn't permitted, they still were able to dazzle and amaze.  Other than the standard balancing acts, contortionists juggled fire and children did things I thought were humanly impossible. But the coolest thing of all was the metal ball cage where 7 motorcyclists danced with death while performing aerial stunts. It was simply incredible. 

The worst part of the whole trip came when we visited the Jeju hedge maze. It was really stupid. I mean, like really poorly designed, the weather was bad, I was tired, and everybody hated it. Did I mention that I was also the last person out(an hour and 15 freaking minutes later!!) and I held up everybody from going to dinner?

This maze was really stupid. I mean, who likes mazes anyways?! (Click on the photo to see my awesome Red Face jacket up close!)

 

                                    

Because that maze was so lame, I decided to visit Washington, DC... In miniature!!  This picture was taken at Jeju's own miniature park. 

The Taj Mahal in front of the Christ the Redeemer Statue

Besides confusing mazes and miniatures, we went to a few  scenic spots around the island.  It went something like this: 

Don't let this white sand beach fool you, I wasn't at Newport! This is Edo island, a 15 minute ferry ride from Jeju. Apparently, this is the only white sand beach in all of South Korea!

Hollywood boulevard, Jeju style

While the site seeing was a lot of fun, the best part of the trip by far was bonding with my students and fellow teachers.  The kids really spoke a lot of English outside of the classroom, and a few of them really surprised me! I learned that two of my kids are close to fluent, and one of them lived in South Africa for a year. Although a lot of my kids are just as low  as I thought they were, their personalities really shined through. 

The kid doesn't speak a lick of English, but he's one of my most outgoing students. 

Except for that kid's disgusting Giants hat, (really, they won the World Series?!!), this pic is alright. 

Aren't they adorable?

After long days of touring, I always looked forward to dinner. You know that expression, "I'm so hungry I could eat a horse?" Well, one night, I think I might just have done that very thing. After being invited into a teachers dinner, I was notified upon entering the restaurant that we would be dining on Jeju's finest meat product, horse. At first, my stomach did a flip at the thought of eating man's best friend, (oh wait, that'll probably happen soon enough), but after the first dish of raw horse meat was brought out, it wasn't so bad. That night we had horse shabu shabu, horse on a stick, boiled horse, grilled horse, and seared horse, all with a hearty side of glue. It was definitely a new tasty experience.  I'd say that it tastes like a high grade cut of beef. At a hefty 30 bucks a person, it was a bit pricey as well, but I'd gladly pay that again. 

But alas, all good things must come to an end. After a week of touring, we headed to the airport to bid farewell to Jeju. Interestingly enough, I didn't know that a vast majority of my students have never flown on a plane before! I realized that not only does one's family have to have the resources to afford air travel, but they also need a destination that warrants it as well. For a country smaller than Texas, it is easy to traverse by train and automobile. So although most of my students can afford plane travel, they've never experienced it before. 

First time flyers proudly displaying their boarding passes. Before we entered security, we determined that bazookas,   plasma rifles, and daggers were not appropriate carry on items.  I really love high school boys!!

Upon returning to Naju, land of the Pears, I was greeted with chilly 50 degree weather. The warm days of Jeju are long gone, and rumor has it that this strange phenomenon will begin at the end of the month where frozen white stuff will start to fall from the sky.  For this sun kissed Southern California boy, that might be too much to handle. But with my trusty Red Face jacket, I'll take on Jack Frost and his friends any day! 

Until next time...