Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Dear South Korea: We need to talk.

As our relationship matures, I feel that there are a few issues that have made themselves evident that warrant a frank yet sincere discussion. While we have only known each other five months, I feel that our lives are moving in different directions. Our parting was inevitable, and we both knew that when we first got together in July. I appreciate you taking on such a heavy relationship with a known expiration date- July 16, 2011.
Nevertheless, I feel that in order for us to truly enjoy and appreciate what precious time we have together, I would like some space. Lately, I have felt a bit stifled by our relationship-the apparent lack of consideration for privacy and personal space, the piercing stares I receive on the bus and the stresses caused by cross cultural relationships have taken a toll on me. To be fully committed to you in the coming months, I feel that some alone time will allow me to reconcile the complexities of our dynamic relationship.
I guess now is a better time than any to finally articulate some of the issues I have with our relationship in its current state:
One of the things that initially attracted me was your resilience to your self identity.  "I am proudly Korean," you would proclaim. With 5,000 years of collective history, you have a defined set of morals, customs, values and traditions that you diligently uphold, to the point where I assume they're encoded into the cultural HTML of Korean society. It's palpable in everything you do; from the way you eat and drink, to the manner in which you interact with your elders. As a result, you've produced artisans, musicians and artists of the highest caliber.
Yet every now and again, you throw me a curve ball.  I know your recent popularity in the international community was bound to influence you, I just wasn't sure how that would manifest itself. Apparently, instead of completely abandoning your age old cultural traditions, you've opted to fuse them with the recent tide of modernization. The result:
The McDonald's Bulgogi burger. A gluttonous symbol for the fusion of Western and Eastern cuisines


Sure, you may say,
"If you can't handle me at my worst, you don't deserve me at my best. So what If I'm not eating as healthy as I used to?"
Before you get defensive, I am not openly criticizing you, rather curiously inquiring your motives. Korea, you are a proud civilization that has valiantly defended itself against numerous foreign invaders. From the struggles for national unification, to the aggressions of your overbearing neighbors Japan,  and your recent headaches caused by your crazy brother in the north, you've stood proud. (And I should properly commend you on your recent display of self-control. You had every right to punch that communist dictatorial brother of yours in the face. And I'm sure few would've judged you for it). Yet in the face of modern globalization, you curiously combine bulgogi and the Big Mac to form the fusion of all fusions. Strange, but who am I to judge?
Maybe I'm a little jealous, but I'm well aware that I was not the only foreigner drawn to you. Currently, there are more than 20,000 native tongue English teachers sharing the love with you, yet I feel like you and I have a special relationship.   I am actively trying to learn your language. I am painstakingly conscious of your endless social norms, and I always give my seat to the ajummas and ajushis (older folk) on the bus.  And for the most part, you're eager to learn about my heritage as well. While we stumble through and butcher each others language, sometimes babbling like infants learning to command our tongues, I can't help but chuckle sometimes at your sheer "cuteness":
You try really hard,  Korea, you really do. And you have a good things to say too!


You do have a lot of suitors, and for good reason. The Land of the Morning Calm is a pretty sweet place to be. Yet I will bow out of the race for a bit. On December 23rd, I will venture to the exotic lands of India for 2 weeks before returning to you. Think of it as if Odysseus decided to take another detour before reuniting with Penelope. And that story ended happily, right?  Like the former governor of the great state of California once said,
"I'll be back."
Until next time...

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

A New Addition to the Family!

After 4 months with my host family, I feel like "part of the gang;" that initial awkwardness that characterized the first few days has subsided long ago. Now, I'm included in the daily rituals of family life, and the "not so pretty" happenings  are carried out free of shame. I know that every morning at 8am, my host mom will wake up my host sister. Inevitably, she'll start crying. Without fail, my mom will take a kicking and screaming 3 year old to her training potty. With a bit of coaxing from my host mom, my sister will enthusiastically relieve herself into her pink chamber pot. All the while, I'm munching down on a piece of toast, unperturbed at the bodily functions taking place mere feet from me. Yeah, I'd say we're comfortable with each other.*
*Side note: How do they potty train Korean youngsters to use the dreaded "squatty potty?"  Is a 3 year old even strong enough to squat? Do they possess the motor skills to properly aim? Korea has opened my eyes to many new things, but I wasn't expecting to learn about the complexities of intercultural potty training! But I digress...
Just as I know the schedule of my sisters bowl movements, I know my mother's shopping routine by heart also. Every monday night at 6pm, my host mom, sister and I will visit the supermarket. I'll fetch the shopping cart and load my lil' sis into the baby seat. We'll cruise around the aisles while my mom shops. She'll buy me gatorade and peanut butter (which have become my dietary connections to the motherland) and i'll watch her purse when she takes the little one to the restroom. (Her bowels move again at 6:30pm, fyi.) The butcher will say "hi" to me, my sister will cry at some point, and my mom will buy rice. We check out, I bag the groceries, load them and my sister into the car, return the shopping cart, and take the groceries into the house. Just like a good husband, err, host son, right? Sometimes I question why I'm really  here when I find myself carrying my mom's purse and my sisters baby toys while walking through public places. But I get peanut butter and gatorade out of the deal, so I think we're even. 
Although I fill many of the domestic roles a husband would assume,  my host dad spends a lot of time with his daughter.  Once he gets home from work at 7, the evenings are reserved for "daddy's little girl." It's precious to watch, and gives me some much needed alone time watching sports highlights in my room. 
However, "daddy's little girl" has recently found herself competing for attention. I present to you a creature who's just as cute and cuddly as my host sister. Ladies and gentleman, meet the newest addition to our family: 
When my host mom brought her home in a crate, I peeked inside and asked "dinner?" She gasped confused as to why I would suggest such a thing. I mean, we are in Korea after all...
I don't know her name. It's something in Korean, so I've knicknamed her "pupster."  Well, anyways, my host dad loves the little tike. She's his pride and joy, so much so, that I sense a bit of resentment among my host sister who now feels threatened by daddy's new girl.


Yeah, yeah, Heo, you're cute and all, but you're so yesterdays news...

 Last saturday, for example, my host dad and I built the lil' pupster a new doghouse. We labored outside in the rain for a good four hours while my  sister begged for her dad's attention.
"Heo, I'm busy," he would say as he nailed down another piece of wood. "I'm building the house of dog."
That wasn't good enough for my lil' sis. She immediately burst into tears after realizing she didn't have her daddy's undivided attention. My dad  rushed off to comfort his #1 girl, leaving me to man the radial arm saw and power drill.

The puppy palace, complete with central heating and a two car garage. 
 For such a little girl, the pupster sure has changed our family dynamic. I know that every morning at 8am, my host mom will wake up my host sister. Inevitably, she'll start crying. Then the dog will start crying. Without fail, my mom will take a kicking and screaming 3 year old to her training potty, followed by my dad frantically running into the garage to fetch his precious little girl. Kicking and screaming just like my host sister, my dad scoops the little pup into his arms so she can relieve herself outside. While this is going on, my sister will enthusiastically dump her bowels into her pink chamber pot.  Shortly after, my dad will praise the dog for doing her business on the grass, and my mom will praise her daughter for doing her business in her potty.  After both parents finish tending to their babies, life continues on as normal. All the while, I'm munching down on a piece of toast, unperturbed at the bodily functions taking place mere feet from me. Luckily, Taro Gomi's classic children's book "Everyone Poops" taught me exactly that.
Puppies and babies are a funny combination: both are helplessly adorable, illogical creatures that primitively act on their instincts without much forethought.( Much like my high school boys,  come to think of it.) Heo and the pupster are in constant need of attention and validation. I've realized some TLC goes a long way in soothing the souls of both beasts and babies alike. 
Overall, life in the home stay is predictable, familiar, and comfortable. It's a lesson thats easy to acknowledge, but hard to recognize: Everybody, all around the world, regardless of race, gender, creed, or nationality, is the same. We have the same hopes, dreams, desires, and fears. I didn't reach this conclusion through some profound event that highlighted the similarities of the human experience. It was much simpler than that:
Everyone poops. 
Until next time....

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

The Seasons they are a changin'


In my 22 years of existence on this planet, I had never thought about the weather. Sure, I knew what weather was. Before I came to Korea, I  had known what seasons were in in theory; Due to the Earth's rotation around the sun, the weather changes and thus creates different meteorological events during the year. Yet I had never witnessed this phenomenon in person, nor had I ever realized how much weather really does affect your daily life. Fellow Angeleno David Letterman summed up our peculiar relationship with the weather quite well:
"Fall is my favorite season in Los Angeles, watching the birds change color and fall from the trees."
Our deciduous trees don't really get the memo that their leaves are supposed to change in the fall, and instead start changing somewhere around Christmas time. We can't drive in the rain, and I honestly think my beloved city would implode if it ever snowed. There's a reason it's called Sunny Southern California, the land of endless summer.
Summer ended here in September. Mother Nature has been prodded along by Father Time, and we're almost in winter.
Other than the temperature dropping, the trees did this really strange thing. They started changing colors. Magnificent colors: shades of reds, oranges, and yellows, as rich and fiery as the sunset itself. It was really quite a site to see, and for this sun kissed SoCal kid, the spectacle was absolutely breathtaking:

Fall foliage on my walk to school

I didn't really understand the appeal of the Fall season before I came to South Korea.  I think I understand a bit better now. 

                                                          My buddy John Mark and I in Jeongup, a city known for it's fall foliage


***

Every third thursday of November, Americans  celebrate  the tradition-laden Thanksgiving holiday. Crisp Fall air, football games in the leaves, and Norman Rockwell-esque gatherings are common imagery surrounding one of America's most gluttonous and delicious holidays. 
For me, Thanksgiving conjures up  one of those turkey day images.  While the holiday is characterized by great family time, the most enduring memory of the holiday is  our car ride to my aunt's house.  The car is full of savory aromas from my dad's smoked turkey and my mom's superb pumpkin muffins. Its usually 70 degrees out, a light breeze blows through the palm trees, and the closest thing to the brilliant oranges, reds and yellows of autumn is the smog filled sunset that pierces the rush hour traffic on the 101 that always plagues our turkey day transit. 
For the second time in my life, that tradition was broken. Yet this past weekend, I was fortunate enough to celebrate Thanksgiving in Seoul with my fellow ETAs. We were formally invited  to the  private residence of the Honorable Kathleen Stevens, US Ambassador to Korea. We would have the opportunity to spend the afternoon with herself and the rest of the US Embassy staff for a full Thanksgiving meal, courtesy of the US State Department. 
As a US Diplomat, part of the job is to host a variety of different groups at your home for public affairs events. Important leaders of Industry, Academics, Politicians and the like all visit the Ambassador's home for a number of different galas throughout the year. Luckily for us, Fulbrighters fall into this category: they pulled out all the stops and treated us to a fantastic afternoon of food and company. 


 
Part of the dining room
One of the many sitting rooms



One of the funniest parts of the afternoon happened when a few ETAs and I wandered to the back of the house, away from the designated hosting area. We stumbled upon the Ambassador's living room (opposed to the hosting area where we were) and noticed she had a wide array of DVD's next to her television. The usual suspects were there:  The Presidents, a documentary by PBS, The Korean Conflict, US Diplomacy Abroad, and a few other documentaries that would interest a US Ambassador. However, next to a series on traditional Korean dance was something out of the ordinary: 
Stacked neatly in a row was EVERY single of  season Chapelle's Show, the hit series that ran on Comedy Central a few years back.  Needless to say, it was a bit out of character for the dignified Ambassador, but I guess we're all human, right? 
After that, every time I was within earshot of the Ambassador, I wanted to yell "I"M RICK JAMES, BITCH!!" at the top of my lungs. Luckily, I didn't. But I really wanted to. 
I know you know what that means, Ambassador Stevens. 
All in all, the weekend was delicious and much needed. I had an unforgettable Thanksgiving courtesy of the State Department, I ate delicious food, and I learned that our very own Ambassador has a funny bone for slapstick vulgar humor. With North Korea straining diplomatic relations as of late, I completely understand why she might need to laugh away her stress with the Robot Dancing man, Tron Carter, and Tyrone Biggums.  SHAZAAM!!!
In other news, word has it that Mother Nature will do yet another shape shifting transformation in the upcoming weeks. Those gorgeous fall leaves have fallen off, and there's talk of this bizarre phenomenon that will sweep the country next month. Apparently, it will get so cold that the rain will turn into these white crystals. I don't quite understand what they mean, but they say I'll need a mittens and a scarf, because it will get a tad bit chilly.  I can't wait to learn more about this "weather" stuff. Bring it on!
Oh yeah. HAPPY TURKEY DAY! Hope you have a safe and relaxing holiday! 
Until next time...

Friday, November 5, 2010

Leaving "Pearadise" for Paradise


As per tradition, Guemseong High School takes an annual trip in November to Jeju Island.  Known as the "Hawaii of Korea," Jeju's unique geological history has made it a prime destination for tourists due to it's unrivaled physical beauty. It's convenient  position below the southern tip of  peninsula makes it accessible by both boat and plane as well. Since trip is all expense paid for teachers, I gladly accepted the offer to join in on the fun. Free food, hotel, admission, and transport on a vacation island? Awesome!

Jeju Island: only 9,604 kilometers from home!


So off we went- myself, 10 other teachers, and 300 high school boys for a week long tropical vacation.   I was expecting palm trees, exotic drinks, and relaxation....PSYCHE!! I did get two out of the three, however, but relaxation definitely was not one of them. Although Jeju was more reminiscent of Southern California than, say, Bali or Bora Bora, it did provide its fair share of exotic sites and experiences. 
The adventure began at 7am on Tuesday morning. After we arrived at the seaport town of Mokpo, we boarded a giant commercial car ferry headed to Jeju city. The boat ride was a grueling 4 hours long on choppy seas, yet this landlubber barely had a chance to develop his sea legs because, being the only foreigner on a boat filled with three all girls high schools, I barely had time to sit down. Between my own students horsing around and the adolescent girls slinging themselves at me for a photo opportunity, it was the closest I've come to celebrity status. The verdict is still out if I like it or not, but for now, I'm happy to keep my relative anonymity. 

Exhibit A: One of the 9,456,782 pictures taken of  me with various high school girls. They would continually compliment me on my "round face" and "handsome looks." At first, I was flattered. Then I realized that "handsome" is a standard adjective to describe the Western phenotype, and many Americans also receive similar compliments. But then I realized it might be better if I just accepted it on face value. ;)

Exhibit B: Guemseong's finest: My biggest kid sitting on my smallest kid. Soon after this picture was taken, they decided to try and make the little one swim with the fishes. One would think that releasing 300 high school boys and 300 high school girls on a boat together would equate to a primetime episode of the "Love Boat," but it was more like an awkward clip from "Freaks and Geeks." Since Korean high school students literally study all day, they do not have time to interact with, let alone flirt with the opposite sex. I'm not saying I was a ladies man when I was 15, but my students were acting more like prepubescent middle schoolers than testosterone driven teenagers.

Once we reached dry land, the whirlwind that would be the next three days began. Some highlights include a circus, a hedge maze, a miniature park, and mountains. Everyday, we would embark and disembark off of busses while our tour guide explained about each site. Since I didn't understand anything, I just smiled and listened. Luckily, my students were more than eager to show me around and make sure I got back on the bus at the right time. 

Halla Mountain

One of the highlights of the trip was a hike up to the peak of Halla mountain. Sitting at a soaring 6,398 feet (take that Mt. Whitney!), Halla took a full 8 hours roundtrip. Although it was the most grueling day of the trip, it was possibly the most fun. 
In South Korea, hiking is viewed strictly as a social activity that has some recreational (and even less physical) component to it.  In the US,  we value our wide open spaces. We love our Yosemite's and Yellowstones, our deserts and forests, our seas to shining seas. We love to pile in the van and go rough it for the weekend. Since 40 million people live in a country the size of Indiana, there are a few geographical constraints to "communing with nature" in South Korea. Instead, popular hiking spots are swarmed with people wearing the latest outdoor fashions.  Not only are the trails packed, but they are also equipped with rest stops, toilets, and sometimes, restaurants. 


About 7 kilometers into the trail, I was greeted with this: A fully fledged snack bar for the hungry intrepid hiker. Bathrooms, water, cameras and ramen awaited. Notice the swarms of people in front. 


 How else would the ramen reach the snack bar other than  a  miniature "ramen train?" This track ran parallel to the trail for 6 kilometers. 
When I wasn't looking at the ramen train, there was quite a bit of pretty scenery to look at as well!
One of the most fascinating things on the trail, wasn't the scenery, (although that was beautiful as well), but more the demographics of the hikers. Young and old alike were chugging up the side of Halla. Surprisingly, I went on a Wednesday. I can only imagine how jammed the trail must be on a weekend!  However, one thing united almost all of the hikers I saw that day. They were all decked out in the most expensive and latest outdoor fashion gear from the North Face. I didn't see any Patagonia or Colombia, only North Face. It really was "wilderness chic" taken to the extreme. At one point, I saw a woman brushing the dirt off of her hiking boots after she stepped in a puddle!



A typical Korean hiker in a color coordinated outfit that would make Ralph Lauren jealous. For the record, it was only 65 degrees outside. Not pictured: My super high quality "Red Face" jacket, complete with a logo that is very reminiscent of a popular outdoor clothing brand. And yes, I did buy it in Korea.


I've noticed that it's customary to bring your entire lunch to the top of the mountain, complete with alcoholic beverages. This is a pretty normal site on the hiking trail.


 Motorbikes, Mazes, and Miniatures

When we weren't scaling mountains, we were site-seeing around the island. One of the coolest things we did was go to  to the Jeju circus. Although the whole island only has a permanent population of 500,000, they have their own circus. Apparently the circus company is world-renouned in the circus community, and for good reason. Although photography wasn't permitted, they still were able to dazzle and amaze.  Other than the standard balancing acts, contortionists juggled fire and children did things I thought were humanly impossible. But the coolest thing of all was the metal ball cage where 7 motorcyclists danced with death while performing aerial stunts. It was simply incredible. 

The worst part of the whole trip came when we visited the Jeju hedge maze. It was really stupid. I mean, like really poorly designed, the weather was bad, I was tired, and everybody hated it. Did I mention that I was also the last person out(an hour and 15 freaking minutes later!!) and I held up everybody from going to dinner?


This maze was really stupid. I mean, who likes mazes anyways?! (Click on the photo to see my awesome Red Face jacket up close!)
 



                                    
Because that maze was so lame, I decided to visit Washington, DC... In miniature!!  This picture was taken at Jeju's own miniature park. 

The Taj Mahal in front of the Christ the Redeemer Statue



Besides confusing mazes and miniatures, we went to a few  scenic spots around the island.  It went something like this: 

Don't let this white sand beach fool you, I wasn't at Newport! This is Edo island, a 15 minute ferry ride from Jeju. Apparently, this is the only white sand beach in all of South Korea!

Hollywood boulevard, Jeju style






While the site seeing was a lot of fun, the best part of the trip by far was bonding with my students and fellow teachers.  The kids really spoke a lot of English outside of the classroom, and a few of them really surprised me! I learned that two of my kids are close to fluent, and one of them lived in South Africa for a year. Although a lot of my kids are just as low  as I thought they were, their personalities really shined through. 


The kid doesn't speak a lick of English, but he's one of my most outgoing students. 

Except for that kid's disgusting Giants hat, (really, they won the World Series?!!), this pic is alright. 

Aren't they adorable?



After long days of touring, I always looked forward to dinner. You know that expression, "I'm so hungry I could eat a horse?" Well, one night, I think I might just have done that very thing. After being invited into a teachers dinner, I was notified upon entering the restaurant that we would be dining on Jeju's finest meat product, horse. At first, my stomach did a flip at the thought of eating man's best friend, (oh wait, that'll probably happen soon enough), but after the first dish of raw horse meat was brought out, it wasn't so bad. That night we had horse shabu shabu, horse on a stick, boiled horse, grilled horse, and seared horse, all with a hearty side of glue. It was definitely a new tasty experience.  I'd say that it tastes like a high grade cut of beef. At a hefty 30 bucks a person, it was a bit pricey as well, but I'd gladly pay that again. 
But alas, all good things must come to an end. After a week of touring, we headed to the airport to bid farewell to Jeju. Interestingly enough, I didn't know that a vast majority of my students have never flown on a plane before! I realized that not only does one's family have to have the resources to afford air travel, but they also need a destination that warrants it as well. For a country smaller than Texas, it is easy to traverse by train and automobile. So although most of my students can afford plane travel, they've never experienced it before. 

First time flyers proudly displaying their boarding passes. Before we entered security, we determined that bazookas,   plasma rifles, and daggers were not appropriate carry on items.  I really love high school boys!!
Upon returning to Naju, land of the Pears, I was greeted with chilly 50 degree weather. The warm days of Jeju are long gone, and rumor has it that this strange phenomenon will begin at the end of the month where frozen white stuff will start to fall from the sky.  For this sun kissed Southern California boy, that might be too much to handle. But with my trusty Red Face jacket, I'll take on Jack Frost and his friends any day! 

Until next time...

Saturday, October 16, 2010

It's all in the family


I recently finished a two week unit on comparatives and superlatives (big, bigger, biggest, tall, taller, tallest, etc..)  that culminated with a writing activity about families. I was focusing on the grammar structure "___ is ____ than ____" and "____ is the ____."  Some activities during the first week included an arm wrestling tournament to determine who is the strongest, a foot stomping competition to determine who is the loudest, and a game I invented called "comparative and superlative soccer shootout." While the first week was filled with friendly competition and lots of comparisons, the second week proved to be the most amusing.
The lesson started off with a review of last week, as well as a brief review of the names of the family members. After analyzing a picture of the Simpsons Family, (in which I learned that Marge is indeed taller than Homer due to her hair) we launched into a writing activity about the people who live in our house. They were to use their previous acquired knowledge of comparatives and superlatives to write 5 sentences about their family. Who is taller? Your mom or dad? Who is the oldest? Youngest? Afterwards, I told them we would share what we wrote about our families. Of course, they rolled their eyes and cursed me under their breath. After all, I had made them write silently for the last 15 minutes. Little did they know I had a trick up my sleeve....
As I mentioned earlier, I've had the peculiar problem of partially nude students in my class. I've been wracking my brain to find a way to combat this most bizarre of classroom management issues, and have begun to question if it was even a battle worth fighting. 
Then it dawned on me. 
Why not turn this scantily issue into a learning opportunity?
So, to model the way I wanted them to share their families, I went first. I told the kids a few sentences about my host family. "In my house," I told them, "I have a mom, dad and sister. I am older than my sister and my mom is younger than my dad. I am the tallest and my sister is the shortest." Afterwards, I would ask them comprehension questions about my family. "Who is taller? My mom or my dad?" I would inquire.  Next, I told the class, "after we share about our families, we need to take a family photograph. But I need my mom, dad, and sister for the picture!" I would then select 3 kids to assume the role of my parents and my little sister. Although the class giggled slightly, I could sense the boredom in their eyes.
However, I did not arbitrarily choose just any kids to play my family. Oh no, it was premeditated. I had a score to settle with these young punks. And I would settle it on my terms, by my rules, and the best part of it all is that they would never know I had it out for them...
As 30 sets of teenage eyes were blankly staring at me, I exclaimed "But we need CLOTHES for our picture!"as I pulled out a big bag of clothing I had collected. Inside were dresses, handbags from my little sister, ajumma (middle aged women) visors, and other goodies. I then proceeded to pass out the necessary articles of clothing to each family member- the ajumma visor and pants for mother, the dress and handbag for sister, and the bowling cap for father.
At that point, the class went BEZERK. Every student, including the perpetual sleepers, were standing on their seats yelling and hollering as their classmates begrudgingly cross dressed in the name of learning. They then whipped out their cell phones and swarmed the unassuming "family" as they accosted them like paparazzi. 
"Muahahahaha," I giggled to myself. "My plan worked perfectly!" 
That one kid who arrogantly strolled into my class 40 minutes earlier without pants on was now sporting a dress and handbag while his classmates enthusiastically photographed him: 

Thats right Min Young, if you can't find the time to put your pants on, i'll just give you something to wear!
Sometimes, however, my plan backfired. As you can see, this young "woman" enthusiastically embraced "her" new gender role.



My host family as portrayed by class 1-4. Apparently, I have a habit of annoying the fathers in my life. You're not alone dad!


This student wrote this about his family:"My mother is smarter than me! My sister is stronger than me! I  My father has bigger masheene than me! I am defunct!"
Gotta love high school boys....


I was waiting for my students to turn the tables on me. Here is Momma Joshie with her flock.


 
All in all, the lesson was a huge success. Not only did my students demonstrate communicate competence of comparatives and superlatives through the four major forms of language (reading, writing, listening, and speaking), but I also established another rule for my class: If you forget to put your knickers on before you enter the classroom, don't worry! I have a pretty little dress for you to wear instead!

Until next time...



    



Monday, October 11, 2010

It's time for Celebration!!!


This past weekend, two important milestones were reached. On October 9th, the Fulbright Korea program celebrated it's 60th anniversary, and my dad celebrated his (somewhere close to) 60th birthday. While I couldn't be physically present with my dad on his special day, here is a greeting from class 2-3: 

This is "Happy Birthday" attempted by 16 year old high school boys. They're probably my best group of students in regards to behavior, participation, and competency.  Just so you know dad, they thought your name was hilarious. They kept saying "alien" instead of "Eliot." Happy Birthday pops!


A  환갑, or Hwangab, is a very significant event in Korean culture.  Since the traditional Korean calendar is 60 years long, the completion of the cycle marks a fresh beginning. It is common for organizations, people, and companies to organize large celebrations marking their 60th anniversary or birthday.  Interestingly enough, the significance of the  환갑 in recent years has declined due to the advent of modern medicine. Only a few short decades ago, most Koreans did not live to see their 60th birthday, but now that South Koreans' average life expectancy is one of the highest in the developed world, this once monumental milestone is less important. 
Nonetheless, not only does October 9th mark the 60th Anniversary for the South Korea Fulbright program, it also marks the 60th anniversary of the outbreak of the Korean War. Labeled as the "Forgotten War" by American historians, the Korean conflict that raged from 1950-1953 has left the peninsula divided, and sure has not been "forgotten" by the South Korean people.  The Fulbright program was originally drafted by Arkansas senator J. William Fulbright as a way to help heal a world scarred by World War II. Ironically enough, only a month before the start of the Korean war, the Republic of Korea signed the official agreement with the United States to establish the Fulbright Program in Korea. Sixty years later, more than 4,200 grantees, both Korean and American, have benefitted from the Fulbright program in Korea.  Today, Fulbright operates in over 120 countries world-wide, bringing scholars, teachers, and researchers together in the name of intercultural understanding.  The program operates on numerous fronts- there is an English Teaching Assistantship Program, (which I am a part of), a grant program for researchers, and a guest lecturer position for foreign teachers. As the largest and oldest of the Programs, Korea is the "flagship Fulbright program." 


For the weekend, all the ETAs headed up to Seoul courtesy of Fulbright. We convened on the 5 star Shilla hotel for an elegant evening of food, drink, and distinguished guests. The Fulbright Office in Seoul had been planning an elaborate gala for months around the theme of "Towards Peace in Korea and the World."  During the gala, many important people spoke about the laurels and importance of the Fulbright program in South Korea. Among the guests were the Honorable Christopher R. Hill, (former ambassador to Iraq,) the Honorable Ahn Byong Man, (Minister of Education, Science and Technology) as well as other government officials from both South Korea and the United States. It was a star studded night, but the Fulbright ETAs also had a moment in the spotlight as well.  We were to debut our original choral arrangement, "We Share in the Dream" in front of a packed house. 




Myself and other ETAs at the gala in our monochromatic choir outfits.


Although the speeches were really interesting, the best part of the evening was the food. Check out this spread!

The Fulbright Flag!


During our bi annual ETA conference, the 2010-2011 ETA class rehearsed a special song composed, written, and performed entirely by the ETAs.  Entitled "We Share the Dream," the song centered around the anniversary's theme "Toward Peace in Korea and the World."  


This is the video of our dress rehearsal. Can you find me? Hint: I'm the only one who's not standing still...


So far this year, I have learned a new language, began my career as a teacher, engaged in a variety of new activities, and made my choral debut. For those of you that have had the blessing of hearing my heavenly voice, it won't come to a surprise when I say that it may or may not have been strongly suggested that I don't sing. Apparently, I was making the male soprano section laugh too hard with my tone deaf cackling.

Nonetheless, the performance went off without a hitch. It was a really neat experience to see a choral arrangement come to life.  And now I can truly say that I am a jack-of-all-trades: cultural ambassador, Jokhu athlete, English teacher, and choir boy.  

Until next time......









Friday, September 24, 2010

A Tale of Two Koreas: 추석 in the Land of the Morning Calm

Every 15th day of the 8th month of the Lunar Calendar, Koreans celebrate 추석 (Chuseok), the festival of good harvest. It is tradition to visit one's ancestral hometowns and eat traditional foods such as 송편 (songypeon, a type of rice cake). And thanks to the Korean government, we also had a week long break from school.   The Chuseok season is very reminiscent of Thanksgiving season back home- the travel industry booms as millions of people flock to their ancestral hometowns and department store sales spike as spam gift sets  fly off the shelves (for some reason Koreans love this American mystery meat). Yet modern commercialism aside, Chuseok is anchored in thousands of years of tradition and lore. Folk games and tomb offerings are commonplace throughout both North and South Korea. 
This dichotomy between the modern, commercialized Korea and its ancient, traditional past was fascinating for me. Maybe I have ignorantly placed my own perceptions of the Korea I wished to see, ignoring the fact that the tides of modernization have been in effect for over twenty years. In a way, I was hoping for a static Korea. Part of me would have  been really happy with a Chuseok celebration that was more reminicent of 1910 than to 2010.  While I did experience traditional foods, we didn't visit any ancestor's graves due to weather. And while I did get to meet the extended family,  the majority of the time was spent transfixed on the latest episode of World's Dumbest Criminals.   As Danny Bonaduce highlighted some of America's best and brightest, I chowed down on delicious Korean cuisine that probably symbolizes something important.  


My host sister in traditional hanbok, while throwing up the  predictable "peace sign"
South Korea has experienced tremendous economic growth in the past 20 years. Ever since the 1988 Summer Olympics debuted "the Land of Morning Calm" to the world, the country has taken off.  Companies like LG, Samsung, and Kia have breathed new life into a country that experienced dictatorship a mere two decades earlier. There is a stark contrast between people over the age of 40 and under the age of 40. In a similar manner to the Greatest Generation that grew up in the Depression and their Baby boomer children who came of age in the prosperous 1950's, those that have lived through the "old Korea" seem to operate by a different set of standards.
One of the highlights of the Chuseok festivities was a hike I went on with my host dad and uncle. My host dad explained his humble upbringing in the 1980's, which was punctuated by military dictatorship, and at times, hunger. He illustrated how when times were rough,  him and his brothers would scour the local mountains for berries and roots from mother nature's pantry. But it was a simpler, more innocent time he described. He said that he worries that the complexities of modern life will jade his daughter.   My host dad was describing life in the old Korea, a Korea before neon lights, bullet trains, and McDonalds. It was a collective experience shared by multiple generation  that ended in the not too distant past. 


My host dad and his brother looking at their hometown from the top of the mountain. As they spoke in Korean, I imagined them reminiscing on a bye gone era of simpler times. I desperately wished I could understand what they were saying to catch a glimpse into the old Korea. They were probably just talking about their mortgages. 



Yet for my generation, and most definitely the generation of my host sister, my host dad might as well have grown up in a different country.  As a country with a 5000 year collective history and culture, South Korea's adoption and interaction with Western trends has perplexed me.  Being an American, this idea of "shared culture" was difficult to grasp. In terms of age, the United States is in its infancy in comparison to many nations around the world.  The US is a nation of immigrants, that is neither united by language, collective, history, or shared culture. In South Korea, the collective culture and history is  palpable in just about every aspect of daily life. From the specific greetings one gives to their elders, to the refined dining and drinking culture, it is obvious that social customs have been present here for thousands of years.
 Does my generation forget their heritage in lieu of adopting American trends? Or is there a complex system of negotiation between traditional cultural values in the face of embracing Western cultural influence? Sometimes, while watching television, I can't help but wonder if today's latest Korean pop stars still adhere to the age old customs of their ancestors:


Although South Korean hip hop group "One Way" looks like they just stepped out of  MTV's TRL,  I constantly wonder if these guys still insa their grandparents and wear traditional clothing during Chuseok.

In sum, my Chuseok holiday was rich in culture, just not the culture in which I hoped to partake. I didn't play any traditional games, nor did I wear customary garb. But I did learn a great amount about the South Korean experience in the 21st century: The country is not static, as much as I wished it to be. It's okay to simultaneously mention folk songs and K pop in the same breath. As South Korea enters into a globalized relationship with the rest of the world, its culture will adapt as well. It's an exciting time to be in the "Land of the Morning Calm."
Until next time...