Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Welcome to Pearville!

Greetings from 나주, (Naju), home of the Pears.
The big day has come and gone. Departure Day, (D-Day) was a whirlwind of activities. We met our co-teachers, our principals, and moved in with our host families.

























Upon meeting my new co-teacher and principal, (whose names I don't remember,) I was showered with gifts:

Flowers, presents, and a cool book on Naju awaited me when I met my co-teacher! I felt so loved!

Soon after, Grace, Jim, Taylor and myself were whisked away on a chartered bus towards Naju. While it was bittersweet to leave our fellow ETAs, little did we know, we were entering the Naju Party Bus- we were immediately given ice cold beers. Once we finished one beer, we were given another. If we were not drinking, we were eating peaches, chips, and apples. We later learned that the Naju Educational Association applies for 4 ETAs every year, and has been working with the Fulbright Commission for more than 10 years. They love Fulbright. Needless to say, we felt even more appreciated and confident about the year to come.


Adios Jungwon University! Naju, here I come!

Don't worry, there are no open container laws in Korea. If you think this is crazy, read on. I'm going to blow your socks off...

MY CITY

Soon, we reached the land of Pears. Before I continue, some quick facts about Naju:

-Naju's population is approximately 100,000 people. It is located in the Southwestern corner of the Korean Penninsula, in the center of Jeonnam Province. Just north of Naju is Gwangju, a larger metropolitan city with a population of 1.4 million people.

-Naju is world famous for its Pears, Pear Museum, and Pear festival. Pear day, which takes places every January 1st, also features processed products from pears, such as pear liquor, pear wine, and pear jelly.

-There are 24 elementary schools, 14 middle schools, 12 high schools, 2 colleges and 1 university in the Naju region. Yet the best school of them all is Guemseong High school, home of the best English teacher of all, me. :)

-Did I mention that Naju has pears?


Downtown Naju. It looks a lot busier than it is...














Naju, where are you?

































At one point a long time ago, the city of Naju was encompassed by a large wall. Today, only the northern, southern eastern, and western gates exist. This is the eastern entrance to the city.















The Naju Crew minus Taylor. He's taking the photo.







Wish you were here!
















In terms of amenities, Naju is pretty well stocked. We have an Adidas store, a few pizza parlors, a pretty sizable bus station, a bowling alley, and pears. Although we lack a movie theatre and decent American food options, we make it up in an intimate, friendly small town environment. To boast, the weather is relatively temperate: It dips into the low 30s, averaging a few inches of snow during the winter. This cold-challenged LA boy will do just fine. I'm definitely not in Kansas anymore, but with the Naju crew at my side, and a great host family, all will be well.








MY HOST FAMILY:

My host family, while delightful, is a little out of the ordinary. My host dad is 35 and my host mom is 31. They aren't exactly, say, host parents, but more like host siblings. I also have a 2 year old sister, who for all intents and purposes, could be my daughter! And just for comparison, I have many friends whose host siblings are as old as my host parents!
So, lets meet the family:
My host dads name is Jinho, and is the Agricultural Comissioner for the ciy of Naju. He's really friendly, energetic, and speaks great English. He also loves Jokho, a Korean sport that combines soccer and volleyball. 
My host mom is Jinhee. She is a secretary at the local university and is currently studying for her final examination in her masters program. Due to her limited English, we don't really talk. We mostly communicate through online translation programs. 

My host dad and lil' sis. 

Isn't she cute?


When I found out I had a pre-school age sister, I had mixed feelings. I didn't really know what to expect. But so, far, it's been very enlightening. Besides watching Barney every morning with her, (which is dubbed in Korean, mind you) I've discovered that we are both at about the same level of Korean study. So when my mom and dad read children's stories to her, I make sure to participate as well. Whether we are looking at picture books, or learning how to write vowels, I'm always by her side in hopes I might pick up something too! 


























MY HOUSE:

...is awesome. My host dad built it himself last year. The house is environmentally friendly and built from recycled or local materials. It is a humble, 900 square feet home in the middle of a neighborhood. We live on the outskirts of town, right next to the city limits sign. Across the street is a rice patty.










My house!

The cutouts in the wall show the straw walls to our house. I dare the big bad wolf to try and blow this little house down!



Our kitchen. We never eat on the table, so I don't even know why we have one

The stairs of death I need to climb up to get to my bathroom. The kitchen is to the left.
MY SCHOOL:


First off, let me say that I absolutely adore my all boys high school. The students are great, its close to my house, and the facilities are top notch. Yet the best aspect by far has been my coworkers. Let me share a few gems from the last week:
I went to school for the first time on Friday. Dressed to impress, I was ready to put on my best cultural ambassador face and make a good first impression on my new coworkers.
Upon arriving, I was shuffled into my principal's office. My principal asks me a series of questions about myself, opens the refrigerator, and hands me a nice, cold refreshing beer. And then he gives me another. And another. Not knowing what to do, (after all, it was the first day of school,) I said, "well, 'when in Rome do as the Romans do!" Nothing like getting wasted with your principal at 8 in the morning!


But it gets better. Much better.
Immediately after our early morning boost of liquid confidence, he decides to take me on a tour of the school. Within 5 seconds of leaving his office, he firmly clasps my hand. And doesn't let go. For the entire tour. And to boot, he proceeded to shower me with compliments about my devilish good looks! So here I am, hand in hand with my principal, walking (or more like drunkenly wobbling) around school at 8:45am. Mind you, students are present and eager to meet. me. Way to make a great first impression as a cultural ambassador!**
But wait, there's more.
After lunch, my co-teacher and I went to get my cellphone and bank account. While he is a very kind, sweet gentlemen, his English is far from proficient. I'm pretty sure every staff member including the 60 year old home economics teacher speaks better English than him. But I digress...Anyway, we get in his car to go to the cellphone store. Still recovering from the mornings' activites, my first thought was "oh, I am so happy that he's driving and not me!"
Then, all of the sudden....BHAAAAM!
"Oh, so sorry! So sorry!"
My coteacher backed up into a parked car.
Before I could process what had just happened, we speeded out of the parking lot.
I start teaching next monday. Who knows what awaits me then....
**Cultural note:



1. Holding hands with a member of the same gender is perfectly normal in Korea. It is the utmost sign of friendship.
2. The giving of alcohol is a sign of hospitality. Alcohol does not carry the same weight or stigma that it does in the United States. This explains a lot...

Well, thank you for reading this far. I know it was a long entry, but expect many many more from the land of Pears. Naju has definitely kept me entertained!





Monday, August 16, 2010

Seoul-o No More


To conclude the 2010 Fulbright Orientation, we visited Seoul for four days to partake in a variety of activities. We were hosted by the US Ambassador at her residence for a pool party, visited the Demilitarized Zone, and had our official graduation from Korean language class. Overall, it was an exhilarating weekend and a fantastic way to wrap up our program.

Although I'm not too sure about the relationship between the US Ambassador to Korea and Fulbright, somehow there is a connection. The connection is great enough to establish a long running tradition of a "meet and greet" pool party with the ETAs and the Ambassador. I was privileged enough to meet the Honorable Kathleen Stephens, who has been the US Ambassador to Korea for the past year and a half. She was a PeaceCorps volunteer in South Korea 33 years ago, and was an integral part in establishing the ETA program here. After an eloquent speech about the importance of US diplomacy in South Korea, (and our role as official US Ambassadors) we put our swimming suits in, jumped in the pool, and chowed down on some food.

The Honorable Kathleen Stephens greeting us to her home

The Pool!

The Ambassadors residence is absolutely stunning. It sits on a few acres in the middle of busy Seoul



We were greeted by an "American style" food spread, complete with potato chips, hamburgers and french fries. After 6 weeks of college dining hall food, a good ole' American burger was a real treat.

Doing what I do best. For the record, I ate 5 hamburgers.

Hanging out with my fellow ETAs.

I managed to sneak in a quick conversation with the Ambassador. Instead of talking about pertinent economic and social issues in the Korean peninsula, I decided to take an alternate approach. While waiting in line for a hamburger, the Honorable Kathleen Stevens and I discussed the intricate process of applying condiments to a hamburger. For the record, the Ambassador prefers ketchup to mustard, and is a fan of In-And-Out. She's A OK in my book.

Other than the Ambassador, there were numerous Embassy Officials present as well. Like the Ambassador herself, they are connected to the Fulbright Program in some manner. It was really nice to meet with the people who might come of service to me in the following year. I had a nice conversation with the guy who is responsible for getting Americans out of jail- hopefully I won't need to use his services in the future, but it was nice to meet him anyway!

The next morning, we woke up bright and early and headed two hours north to the Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. Established in 1953, the Demilitarized Zone is one of the last remnants of the Cold War era and a staunch reminder of a divided people. Without diving into geo politics too much, the DMZ was a rather perplexing experience; it is something I will remember for a long time.
Not surprisingly, security was very tight during the tour. We booked our tour through the United Service Organization in Seoul, and were guided by two United States Soldiers. The border itself was anti-climactic. The blue buildings in the foreground are South Korean, and the large grey building in the distance in North Korean. Apparently, the building is only a facade:

Since each side is under constant video surveillance, all visitors must adhere to a very strict dress code-Men are required to wear ties, and women must wear makeup. Apparently, these videos are used as propaganda for the North Korean people to portray the rest of the world as poor and uncivilized.


The blue buildings in the above pictures are official negotiating rooms. They are jointly run by North and South Korea. There are two Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers in each building at all times:


Our American guide standing next to a ROK guard inside the blue negotiating room. Apparently, the ROK guards are extensively trained in Taekwondo. They are standing in attack position and in the words of our guide, "they will hurt you if you get near them"


The ROK guard and I. North Korea is on the other side of the door behind me.

The North Korean guards use a few different intimidation tactics, including these menacing binoculars. Yet a recent survey in the Seoul Herald notes that "most South Koreans are more concerned with finding a parking space than an imminent attack from the North." Go figure.


We also visited a series of incursion tunnels dug by North Korea. The tunnels are believed to have been dug as a military invasion into South Korea and are wide enough to move an entire infantry division in one hour. Upon discovery, the North Korean government claimed it was for coal mining, yet the tunnels are dug through granite. Today, the tunnel is a tourist attraction complete with a gift shop and wheel-chair access.


Due to the uneven ceiling, hardhats are provided. I'm glad, because I hit my head a few times!


Some gift shop apparel

Since the Demilitarized Zone is prohibited to development, it has become a thriving ecosystem. National Geographic has documented it numerous times. This book is a compilation of the biodiversity that thrives in one of the most hostile places in the world.

The last stop on our tour was the Dorasan train station:


Serving as a hopeful symbol of a future of a united Korean Peninsula, the Dorasan train station was a somber experience. The station is ready to go, complete with baggage claim, parking lot, and ticket booth.

Although nobody has ever claimed a bag here, it is hoped that one day this will be a very busy place.



The poster reads: "Not the last station from the South, but the first station toward the North"

After a long day, we decided to hit the town and check out Seoul's night life. The city is incredible. The subway system is extensive, cheap, and efficient. Although I was expecting Seoul to be covered in skyscrapers and hover cars (like a combination of Star Wars and Bladerunner), there were a lot of neon signs. There's a reason its called an Asian mega city- it boasts an impressive 20 million people, and is home to approximately half of South Korea's population.

The past meets the present: A statue of a Korean historical figure surrounded by illuminated fountains.

A group of us ended up going to Chunnyn, a really sheik Jazz club in downtown Seoul. Complete with overpriced drinks, a grand piano, glass walls and mood lighting, we had a relaxing night. By the end of the evening, my belly was full and my wallet was empty.

Table for two with a city view

We went on a Saturday night, and although the place was far from full, there were only tables for couples, and for good reason. This is a great date spot.

The next day we headed to Korea University to participate in our Korean Language Class graduation. Our language program was administered through the Korean Language and Culture Center (KLCC) at Korean University. Although our language program was only 6 weeks, it was really intense. We had 20 hours of class a week, quizzes every monday, presentations, and a 5 minute speech at the end of the program. Along with the typical pomp and circumstance that accompanies graduations, each class also performed a skit to showcase their speaking (and acting) skills.

The cover to our fancy Graduation Diplomas!

There were also superlative awards given out to the top students in each class and a "best effort" award as well. The "best effort" award was voted upon by all of the teachers and the Orientation Coordinators. While I was far from the best student in my class, I did win the "best effort" award. I worked really hard and it was nice to be recognized in front of 72 of my peers.


My "best effort" award certificate! I developed a reputation as a study bee among my fellow ETAs.



With language classes completed and Orientation coming to an end, I am preparing myself for the next step in my journey. Departure Day (aptly nicknamed "D-Day") is on Thursday, and closing ceremonies are in full procession. Tonight we had our ETA Talent Show, which included a Kimchi eating contest, musical acts, dancing, and stand up comedy. There was also an ETA voted superlative list with categories such as "most likely to marry a Korean," "most likely to become addicted to Soju," "most likely to get mistaken for a real Korean" and "most likely to wake up in North Korea." I ended up taking two superlatives home: "most likely to be found in Korean office hours" and "best smile." The evening as a whole was a great way to wrap up Orientation.

....In other news, I found out about my host family! I will be living with a mom, dad, and a pre-school aged sister. My host dad is 36 and works in an office. My host mom is 31 and is a secretary at a school. My host parents are a little on the younger side, but I'm excited to become part of my new family. I will be living approximately 15 minutes away from my school by bus. Once I get settled in, I will be sure to post my contact information for those that want to send me presents! :)

Next step: D-Day. Naju here I come!
Be on the lookout for the next post from Pearville!