To conclude the 2010 Fulbright Orientation, we visited Seoul for four days to partake in a variety of activities. We were hosted by the US Ambassador at her residence for a pool party, visited the Demilitarized Zone, and had our official graduation from Korean language class. Overall, it was an exhilarating weekend and a fantastic way to wrap up our program.
Although I'm not too sure about the relationship between the US Ambassador to Korea and Fulbright, somehow there is a connection. The connection is great enough to establish a long running tradition of a "meet and greet" pool party with the ETAs and the Ambassador. I was privileged enough to meet the Honorable Kathleen Stephens, who has been the US Ambassador to Korea for the past year and a half. She was a PeaceCorps volunteer in South Korea 33 years ago, and was an integral part in establishing the ETA program here. After an eloquent speech about the importance of US diplomacy in South Korea, (and our role as official US Ambassadors) we put our swimming suits in, jumped in the pool, and chowed down on some food.
The Honorable Kathleen Stephens greeting us to her home
The Pool!
The Ambassadors residence is absolutely stunning. It sits on a few acres in the middle of busy Seoul
We were greeted by an "American style" food spread, complete with potato chips, hamburgers and french fries. After 6 weeks of college dining hall food, a good ole' American burger was a real treat.
Doing what I do best. For the record, I ate 5 hamburgers. 
Hanging out with my fellow ETAs.
I managed to sneak in a quick conversation with the Ambassador. Instead of talking about pertinent economic and social issues in the Korean peninsula, I decided to take an alternate approach. While waiting in line for a hamburger, the Honorable Kathleen Stevens and I discussed the intricate process of applying condiments to a hamburger. For the record, the Ambassador prefers ketchup to mustard, and is a fan of In-And-Out. She's A OK in my book.
Other than the Ambassador, there were numerous Embassy Officials present as well. Like the Ambassador herself, they are connected to the Fulbright Program in some manner. It was really nice to meet with the people who might come of service to me in the following year. I had a nice conversation with the guy who is responsible for getting Americans out of jail- hopefully I won't need to use his services in the future, but it was nice to meet him anyway!
The next morning, we woke up bright and early and headed two hours north to the Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. Established in 1953, the Demilitarized Zone is one of the last remnants of the Cold War era and a staunch reminder of a divided people. Without diving into geo politics too much, the DMZ was a rather perplexing experience; it is something I will remember for a long time.
Not surprisingly, security was very tight during the tour. We booked our tour through the United Service Organization in Seoul, and were guided by two United States Soldiers. The border itself was anti-climactic. The blue buildings in the foreground are South Korean, and the large grey building in the distance in North Korean. Apparently, the building is only a facade:
Since each side is under constant video surveillance, all visitors must adhere to a very strict dress code-Men are required to wear ties, and women must wear makeup. Apparently, these videos are used as propaganda for the North Korean people to portray the rest of the world as poor and uncivilized.
The blue buildings in the above pictures are official negotiating rooms. They are jointly run by North and South Korea. There are two Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers in each building at all times:
Our American guide standing next to a ROK guard inside the blue negotiating room. Apparently, the ROK guards are extensively trained in Taekwondo. They are standing in attack position and in the words of our guide, "they will hurt you if you get near them"
The ROK guard and I. North Korea is on the other side of the door behind me.
The North Korean guards use a few different intimidation tactics, including these menacing binoculars. Yet a recent survey in the Seoul Herald notes that "most South Koreans are more concerned with finding a parking space than an imminent attack from the North." Go figure.
We also visited a series of incursion tunnels dug by North Korea. The tunnels are believed to have been dug as a military invasion into South Korea and are wide enough to move an entire infantry division in one hour. Upon discovery, the North Korean government claimed it was for coal mining, yet the tunnels are dug through granite. Today, the tunnel is a tourist attraction complete with a gift shop and wheel-chair access.
Due to the uneven ceiling, hardhats are provided. I'm glad, because I hit my head a few times!
Some gift shop apparel
Since the Demilitarized Zone is prohibited to development, it has become a thriving ecosystem. National Geographic has documented it numerous times. This book is a compilation of the biodiversity that thrives in one of the most hostile places in the world.
The last stop on our tour was the Dorasan train station:
Serving as a hopeful symbol of a future of a united Korean Peninsula, the Dorasan train station was a somber experience. The station is ready to go, complete with baggage claim, parking lot, and ticket booth.
Although nobody has ever claimed a bag here, it is hoped that one day this will be a very busy place.
After a long day, we decided to hit the town and check out Seoul's night life. The city is incredible. The subway system is extensive, cheap, and efficient. Although I was expecting Seoul to be covered in skyscrapers and hover cars (like a combination of Star Wars and Bladerunner), there were a lot of neon signs. There's a reason its called an Asian mega city- it boasts an impressive 20 million people, and is home to approximately half of South Korea's population.
The past meets the present: A statue of a Korean historical figure surrounded by illuminated fountains.
A group of us ended up going to Chunnyn, a really sheik Jazz club in downtown Seoul. Complete with overpriced drinks, a grand piano, glass walls and mood lighting, we had a relaxing night. By the end of the evening, my belly was full and my wallet was empty.
Table for two with a city view
We went on a Saturday night, and although the place was far from full, there were only tables for couples, and for good reason. This is a great date spot.
The next day we headed to Korea University to participate in our Korean Language Class graduation. Our language program was administered through the Korean Language and Culture Center (KLCC) at Korean University. Although our language program was only 6 weeks, it was really intense. We had 20 hours of class a week, quizzes every monday, presentations, and a 5 minute speech at the end of the program. Along with the typical pomp and circumstance that accompanies graduations, each class also performed a skit to showcase their speaking (and acting) skills.
The cover to our fancy Graduation Diplomas!
There were also superlative awards given out to the top students in each class and a "best effort" award as well. The "best effort" award was voted upon by all of the teachers and the Orientation Coordinators. While I was far from the best student in my class, I did win the "best effort" award. I worked really hard and it was nice to be recognized in front of 72 of my peers.
My "best effort" award certificate! I developed a reputation as a study bee among my fellow ETAs.
With language classes completed and Orientation coming to an end, I am preparing myself for the next step in my journey. Departure Day (aptly nicknamed "D-Day") is on Thursday, and closing ceremonies are in full procession. Tonight we had our ETA Talent Show, which included a Kimchi eating contest, musical acts, dancing, and stand up comedy. There was also an ETA voted superlative list with categories such as "most likely to marry a Korean," "most likely to become addicted to Soju," "most likely to get mistaken for a real Korean" and "most likely to wake up in North Korea." I ended up taking two superlatives home: "most likely to be found in Korean office hours" and "best smile." The evening as a whole was a great way to wrap up Orientation.
....In other news, I found out about my host family! I will be living with a mom, dad, and a pre-school aged sister. My host dad is 36 and works in an office. My host mom is 31 and is a secretary at a school. My host parents are a little on the younger side, but I'm excited to become part of my new family. I will be living approximately 15 minutes away from my school by bus. Once I get settled in, I will be sure to post my contact information for those that want to send me presents! :)
Next step: D-Day. Naju here I come!
Be on the lookout for the next post from Pearville!
1 comment:
of course you would have a conversation about In and Out. I'm glad you have your priorities straight
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